Day 88

Marlipops fell over today.

We had not even hooked up the peril to start our trip, when she was off shutterbugging. That is a word we have discovered used to describe a snaphappy person who takes a picture or two.

Anyway, she stepped onto the grass verge at the side of the road, and it was wet from the rain, and over she went, smack onto her right shoulder. After the past year of trying to get her left shoulder fixed, she damages her other one!!

So the Captain picked her up and manfully carried her to the coach, and spent half an hour massaging some feeling back into the damaged area.

It is said that the drive from Jasper to Banff, in Alberta, Canada, known as the Icefield Parkway, is the third most scenic and beautiful drive in the world.

Well, numbers one and two must really be out of this world, coz this drive today was mind blowingly, breathtakingly stupendous.

We have decided not to try and describe the splendor of this place, just strongly suggest you go on line and look it up, or better still, come see it for yourself.

We are actually going to drive it again, from Banff to Jasper and back, tomorrow. This is for two main reasons. Firstly, it is very difficult to stop the coach, or The Titanic as it has been christened by a certain nameless relative, Larry, to take every picture opportunity. It will be much easier to pull over anywhere when we drive the peril.

The second reason is that it was raining today, and we mist ( get it?) the first 40 miles or so coz of non visibility.

What we did see, when Mr. Sun decided to show his big round face, was enough for a total change of plan, again.

We had decamped Whistlers Mountain campsite in Jasper, taken pix of some mule deer wandering around the site, and were heading to Calgary, via the Icefield Parkway, to find a site to stay at for several days, even a week, to take care of some bizniss and maintenance.

Once we had driven the Parkway, we decided to stay in Banff, Marlipops did her magic with campsite locating, and we are currently sitting in Tunnel Mountain Trailer Park government campsite, just on the northeast of Banff. A wonderful site, with full hook ups, quiet and full of trees and greenery. The staff are friendly and helpful, not like them at Whistlers.

One very interesting thing they have here is large animal bridges.

Once the Parkway ends at Lake Louise, the road becomes 4 lane and very busy, and is fenced on both sides to protect both animals and vehicles. So, as there are lots of big animals, moose, cariboo ( that’s how they spell it up here, eh) elk, deer and bears, they have constructed two wide bridges out of rock and earth and grass, to make them feel like normal ground, for the big critters to safely cross over the road.

Canada is an enigma.

There is obviously a very strong American influence, but also there is a British feel to the place. The currency has The Queen on everything, the government is exactly along British lines, the newspapers are written Englishly, the spelling of words is the English way. It is also interesting to note that a lot of the Canadians we have met speak with a French accent. Strike one misconception, that only certain areas of this country have French influence. Having said that, the other misconception that anything with a French connection is not good, is totally wrong also. There has only been one person we have met who was less than helpful. Everyone else is pleasant, smiling, and eager to help. A very enjoyable country to visit. Prices are higher than the States, but a) we are in tourist areas, and b) from what we see and hear, state benefits are better here, so the money has to come from somewhere. If we don’t like the prices, we shouldn’t be here!!

Enough.

The good news from England for our American viewers is The Wolves won again.

Animal watch today was mule deer.

Day 87

So, the Captain had to eat his words, this place is worth the money!!

We left the campsite around 9.30ish, and went towards Jasper. We had only gone ½ mile and we had to stop to take scenery pix.

The mountains around here are totally different from each other. There will be a snow covered bald mountain, next to a tree covered mountain, next to one with steep uncovered rocky slopes, so diverse!

The river threads it’s way through all the little valleys, and with a cloudless sky ( almost) the total package is stunning.

The little town of Jasper is very touristy, but extremely clean, and very picturesque, with mountains all around as backdrops.

We had a good breakfast in The Black Sheep Café, reasonably priced and excellent food, while we internetted to y’all and others.

We drove the 50 km scenic route to Lake Maligne, pronounced Maleen coz it’s French, saw some deer and big horn sheeps. The drive was windy windy, but good roads and stunning scenery. As Marlipops puts it “We have never met an ugly mountain.”

We detoured to “Bridge 6” and “Bridge 5” over the river, and then down to Maligne Canyon, a scenic hike down to a ………..canyon.

Marlipops went down and down and down, while the Captain sat at the top, making sure no one stole the bench or spoiled the view!

I had an interesting conversation with an eighty year old gentleman from Scotland, who was speaking English supposebly, but I could only understand one word in five! Still, when two Brits get talking football, …………..

We carried on to the end of the road, and watched a couple of Harlequin Ducks dispute part of the river with a couple of Common Mergansers.

Lake Maligne is clear and blue, blue, blue. It is big and scenic and has lots of boaters and kayakers and canooers on it.

We drove back at a leisurely pace, coz the ‘Pops was still knackered from her 30 minute mountain climb, and wandered back to Jasper. We had dinner on the second floor balcony of the Villa Carouso Restaurant, which was not brilliant at all. Still, you win some and you lose some, the views of the mountains were some recompense for the poor food quality.

After, we took a drive around the town itself, which is interesting, because each house seems to have been built individually, and therefore every house, garden and fence is different from it’s neighbor, the overall effect being diverse, pleasant and a homey feel to the town. We found out that real estate prices are high here, as expected, but they are coming down in real terms as the rest of Canadian prices are catching up with them. Twisted logic if you ask me.

Anyway, afterwards we went and had a look at the cable car which goes up to the top of Whistlers mountain, just round the corner from our campsite. They wanted $ 24.00 each for us to take the 5 minute ride, so we decided to let other people have the pleasure of spending some money, and we stayed at the base, and took pix of a red squirrel instead!

Then, an early night with Marlipops editing pix and The Captain catching up with The Generals Daughter. ( Nelson De Mille book)

Wildlife watch today was bighorn sheeps, deer, red squirrel, harlequin dux, common mergansers, ravens and a eagle.

Day 86

Today’s report was going to be very short, coz we thought nothing but travel would be boring and uninteresting.

We left our overnight boondock rest area, where we had four other RVs join us overnight.

They could not see the sign that said no overnight camping, since we had parked in such a way as to hide it completely from view!

We left at 8, and by 8.30 had seen two black bears and a deer.

Now, for some statistics. Today, we passed the 10,000 mile mark, miles driven since we left Houston. We have averaged 8.5 miles per gallon, Average cost per gallon $ 3.35, average nightly rate $11.69.

We eventually came to civilization, and horror of horrors, traffic lights. We were in Prince George, British Columbia. We have to pass comment that every little town in British Columbia we have gone through has been spotlessly clean, virtually no trash anywhere. Very impressive.

After filling up with diesel and washing the peril, it IS yellow not grey, we trogged on down route 16 towards Jasper.

The scenery prior to Prince George was pretty, but nowhere near as good as Alaska or Yukon.

However, after leaving Prince George the terrain quickly became more rugged, wilder and the mountains started to grow!

We headed towards the Canadian Rockies, down the Robson River valley.

A sign to our right indicated a small 5 minute trek to Rearguard Falls, so we duly trekked. Not only were the falls spectacular, the salmon trying to get over them were pretty neat as well. And we watched a bunch of idiots get into a rubber boat and go down the river, over all the rapids, and they were sitting on the edge of the boat, not in it! Crazy.

We carried on down the road, came round a bend in a twisty turney section, and Mount Robson, the highest point in Canada, just appeared out of nowhere, with the most interesting snow patterns, and the top shrouded in clouds. We fortunately came to a rest area, pulled over, and took some pix.

Then, we got to Jasper, and it was getting dark, and we got to the gate on the road to the National Park System. If you are stopping in the Park, and you have to go to a designated site, then you get charged to enter. Then, when you get to the campsite, you pay to park for the night. Only if you are not stopping overnight anywhere do you get to not pay.

Still, as the Pops said, it is worth it to see such beauty. I will reserve judgment until tomorrow, when it is light!

We pulled in to Whistlers Campsite, after dark, and were told there were no sites with hook ups available, so we have to dry camp for 2 nights, yet cannot run the generator at all, except 8 to 9.30 in the morning, and 5 to 7 in the evening.

The French guy at the check in told us there is as much room as Texas to park. Navigating around all these pine and birch trees in the dark was hairy, but the Captain, ably assisted by first mate Marlipops, managed with no problem, and once I put the coach into reverse, there was enough light to land a jumbo jet!!

I tried a new beer tonight, brewed by Okanagan Spring Brewery, of Vernon, BC. It was their mild dark ale, and absolutely average.

Wildlife watch today was 2 black bears, some deer, a rat, some salmon, and a elk.

Day 85

Today was sad. We finally said goodbye to Alaska, for this trip at least.

We were on our way to Fish Creek again, in Hyder, to see morning bears if possible getting fish.

On the way, we had to stop coz there was a big grizzly just strolling down the road, stopping to sniff the air, then examine the shrubs at the road edges, then wander down the center of the road. Finally he disappeared into the brush by the creek.

Ironic that we were slowed down from seeing bears, by a bear!!

Unfortunately, by the time we got to the viewing area, we had missed the big female grizzly and her two cubs.

Still, we had a good time for an hour or so, chatting to fellow travelers, and watching the antics of the seagulls eating the salmon eggs, almost as soon as the fish have spawned, and other gulls chasing off a bald eagle.

We left our campsite at Bear River around noon.

They had a caravan of RVs show up yesterday, with about thirty rigs of all shapes and sizes, all with their “Fantasy RV Tour” stickers on their coaches and cars. They were like sheep, following the caravan leader around, and then having evening meetings.

It takes all sorts, but that way of traveling is not for us, coz we are rebels, going where we want, when we want, changing our plans at the drop of a hat.

So, after finally getting the peril hooked up properly, we have some trouble now and then with the hitch thingy, we were off up to the Cassiar Highway again.

After 100 miles we came to The Yellowhead Highway, which traverses most of Canada, east to west.

We had thought about heading west to Prince Rupert, but it looks very big, and we don’t like big cities any more, so although we were within two feet of making the turn, we didn’t.

Instead we are currently boondocked at kilometer marker 478, after going through Houston!

This Houston is bigger than the Houston of Alaska, but not quite as big as the smelly, sweaty, humid hot Houston in Texas!

The scenery down here is excellent, lots of farms and fields, with the hay already rolled and stacked, cows and horses, and mountains in the distance, but we have been spoiled by Alaska, and nothing compares.

Marlipops said she had a very sad feeling on leaving Alaska, and I have to agree. As we’ve said many times, Alaska has changed us both.

Hopefully we will get to see some more bears in the Rockies when we go through in the next couple of days, and we need our moose fix!!!

Wildlife watch today was one grizzly, two black bears, cows, horses, a deer, alpacas, a heron and a bald eagle, just for Karen.

Day 84

Could we have a day with as much happening as yesterday? Doubtful, but we tried.

First, the continued tale of our unwanted house guest, as reported yesterday.

No luck overnight with the traps, and so as Marlipops was looking on line to find some super dooper all singing all dancing electronic mice traps, I saw the little sod run right along the wall, right by the Pops.

So, quick as a flash, your hero flew over the chair and catched him in my powerful left hand!

I then took him outside, humanely smashed his head in, and threw him into the bushes for the bears!

Then, after bidding a fond farewell to our friends Grayson and Pauline, we drove over the border to Alaska, and into the town of Hyder, again. We had not even got as far as Fish Creek, and had already seen two black bear cubs, at separate times.

We did not stop at the bear viewing area, but carried on, for 23 miles, back over the border, although there is nothing but a sign, to Salmon Glacier.

We have seen glaciers from afar, we have seen hanging glaciers and tidewater glaciers, but we have never looked down on a glacier. This thing is incredible, mile and mile long, coming down off the icefield, splitting into two different directions and filling the valley with chunks of ice as big as a house.

The drive was a dirt and gravel, single lane track, winding around and only just clinging to the side of the mountain as it rose 3000 ft.

The view of the drop over the edge was to die for, literally!

The whole journey took over 3 hours to complete, since a certain companion wanted to stop every few minutes for more breathtaking pix.

We saw a Hoary Marmot, and then we saw another one. These things eat only vegetation, hibernate from September to April, and are often digged up by bears, and eaten while still asleep!!

We then went to the boardwalk to watch for bears, but only saw a mid sized black bear, picking up dead fish, dragging them into the bushes, and then coming back for more.

Coz we had gotten up so early, we went back to the coach at early o’clock, and had a beautiful halibut and chips dinner, followed by an early night.

Bear watch today was three black bears, Goldilocks again absent, two hoary marmots, two bald eagles, some herons, Canada geese, and a live, then dead mouse.

Day 83

Today was the best day of our trip, without question.

As Marlipops so eloquently put it, “ If you only have three days, and want the best scenery, the best town and the best wildlife, come here”

We started off with a moose. But, it was the wrong type of moose. This was a house moose, of the rodent variety. We had overnighted in the middle of nowhere and woke up to the patter of tiny feet. Actually it was the sight of the little bugger scampering across the floor that gave us our first clue. The second clue was moose crap in my shoes.

More to this later.

On the road by 8, we encountered not one, not two, but three bears in the road. Where was Goldilocks? The first was an indistinct blob from afar, and as we got closer, all we could see were a pair of ears and a snout, which disappeared into the undergrowth. The second was a big grizzly we came across suddenly as we rounded a bend in the road. He was ambling gently across, but ran away when he saw us. The third was a black bear which darted across in front of us. In all three sightings we did not have much chance to get a good picture, and we thought that is was OK, coz we had lots of other pix, and the memories of three bears in one day will be with us forever.

150 miles down the Cassiar Highway, which was freshly paved and a pleasure to drive on, compared to the day before, we turned on to the Stewart – Hyder access road……..and encountered the most gobsmacking scenery imaginable. There were mountains so close around we felt we could touch them, lots with avalanche paths, where there are no trees, lots of beautiful lakes, waterfalls galore, and several magnificent hanging glaciers. These literally hang off the mountains, gradually melting, forming roaring streams and rivers. The road meandered through a narrow canyon/gorge, with the river rushing and boiling right alongside. We were so close to the river we could smell the unique “glacier melt” odor from it.

And then into Stewart, and the Bear River RV resort. This place had been recommended to us by a couple of fellow travelers we had met a few weeks ago in Kenai, and with whom we had kept in touch via e mail. They were going to be here for another day, so we were hoping to meet up with them.

We parked the coach, hooked up all the essentials, and went into the town of Stewart. This tiny town is right on the edge of Canada, at the top of The Portland Canal, the fourth largest fjord in North America, and 2 miles away is the tinyer town of Hyder, which is in Alaska. There is no customs post going into Hyder, but there is one coming back into Stewart. Both towns are tidy and rely on logging and tourism for business. Hyder has a post office, but no bank. Stewart the opposite.

We went into the hardware store and stocked up on moose traps!

The streets of Hyder are gravel, no paving anywhere. The best thing is the wildlife.

We had been told, but were skeptical that the best place in the world to watch bears fishing and eating salmon was in Hyder. Not the Kodiak bears, or Denali, but Hyder, population 80. ( that’s people, not bears!)

Well, check out the pix.

We stood on the observation boardwalk overlooking Fish Creek for over six hours. We could not get away.

We met up with our friends Pauline and Grayson, and chatted for a while, and then the first bear arrived. It was a female immature grizzly, and proceeded to chase and finally catch a fish. Soon, a mature black bear showed up, ran off the grizzly, and went about his business for about a hour. Then, Marlipops noticed some movement in the bushes above the road opposite, and there was the grizzly, which had been run off from the creek earlier, busy eating berries.

Next, the black bear wandered off, and another, bigger grizzly appeared, and entertained us for ages. We were getting photo shock by this time, and had stopped taking pix, just happily watching the bears antics. I was just looking round, to the beautiful lake behind us, and right on the path, not 10 feet away, was a black bear, strolling along, totally ignoring everyone. He disappeared into the bushes after a while, and then, not long after, there was a female black bear, with two small cubs, crossing the creek, on to the road, and stopping all the traffic.

Marlipops saw a beaver, which was busy doing nothing on a log.

While I was busy talking, Marlipops went looking for more bears, and saw a black bear cub, supposebly two or three years old, sitting in a tree, making noises.

We eventually left, although the big grizzly was still eating big salmon, and the seagulls which had been there all day, were too stuffed to fly.

All the while, the poor old salmon, on their last legs, were still trying to spawn, before they died or got eaten!

On the way back, we went past a place called Moose Pond, although there are no moose there, and saw another beaver swimming along.

We had a lovely dinner with our friends, at the only restaurant still open at nine o’clock!

Wildlife watch today was out of this world, and the great thing is, we get to go back tomorrow.